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HOME MAINTENANCE TIPS |
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Landscaping
GRADING
All of our homesites are carefully graded to provide positive drainage away from the house. Standing water should be expected after a heavy rain, but standing water shouldn’t be evident after 48 hours from the time the rain has stopped. However, it could take longer if the ground is saturated or frozen.
When native trees are left on the homesite, original grades in those areas should not be disturbed. When determining when it is practical to leave certain trees, site conditions, house placement, and elevation are factors.
Over time, settling of filled areas around the home is to be expected. This can be corrected by spreading soil in the settled areas to prevent water from accumulating around the foundation. Attention to proper drainage is a homeowner responsibility.
The grades around your home should not be altered once they are established. Landscaping should not impede the proper flow of water away from the home. Make certain the splash blocks are in the proper position. Set the sprinklers carefully to keep water off the walls and away form the foundation.
Make certain that foundation drains are not buried or crushed. They should be kept open draining downhill. Failure to maintain this drain may result in flooding of foundation areas or basements.
GUTTERS AND DOWNSPOUTS
It is very important that you keep the gutters and downspouts on your home free of leaves, tree limbs, or anything else that could block the flow of water. Downspouts should direct water away from the foundation.
IRRIGATION SYSTEM
Not all homes are equipped with an irrigation system, if your home is equipped, below are some tips on using it.
The irrigation system will require a check-up in the spring to ensure it is working properly. In the winter, the system needs to be shut down and drained to prevent the possibility of the pipes freezing and/or bursting.
Your irrigation system was designed for the size and shape of your lawn. The main components are:
CONTROLLER – (automatic timer) To program the controller, please read and follow the instructions inside the control panel. The controller should already be programmed for normal summer use. Run through the program by following the instructions to confirm that the desired time and day are programmed. Check to make sure each zone is properly set.
CUT-OFF VALVE – For emergencies and/or repairs, the cut-off valve allows you to stop the water flow to your irrigation system without affecting the water supply to your home. In most cases, the cut-off valve is located right next to the water meter.
PREPARING FOR WINTER
- Turn the cut-off valve to the OFF position.
- Manually run through the water cycle for each zone. This will open each electric valve and allow water in the lines to drain out through the lowest head. Allow each zone to stay on long enough to allow all water to escape from the lowest head. Make sure to drain all zones in your lawn.
- Unplug the controller.
STARTING UP IN SPRING
- Turn the cut-off valve to the ON position allowing the system to pressurize. Once pressurized, check your water meter to see that it is not turning (all sinks, showers, etc. must be off). If the water meter is turning, there is a leak in the main line (the line between the meter and electric valves). This must be repaired prior to operating the system.
- Plug in the controller.
- Check the controller to ensure the system is set for the desired times, days and duration of operation. If your system has a back-up battery, replace it each spring.
LANDSCAPING
Proper care of the grounds around your home can not only add to its beauty, but also protect the structure of the house.
Your lawn may be either seeded fescue or Bermuda sod. Seeded lawns should germinate and grow well provided they are maintained and watered properly. Sod lawns may be dormant at the time of installation, but with proper care and watering, it should break dormancy in the first spring after the initial installation. Your lawn is also landscaped with trees and shrubs. The beauty of your landscaping will depend on the care and attention you provide it.
CARING FOR GRASS
Even though Bermuda and Fescue lawns need different care, both have similar weeding and liming requirements.
Weeds can be controlled or prevented by using both pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides. You can find these products at any lawn and garden store. Please follow the instructions on the package.
Pre-emergent herbicides should be applied in late winter and should never be used on fescue in the first 4 months after seeding, as this could prevent grass growth. Also, do not use pre-emergents on Bermuda sod that is coming out of dormancy, as this could damage or possibly kill it.
Lime should be applied to your lawn to reduce the acidity of the soil. It can be applied at any time throughout the year. Follow the instructions on the package.
FESCUE GRASS
Water seeded lawns frequently to prevent the drying out of the seeds. When watering, soak the root zone to a depth of 4-5 inches (this is the equivalent of about 1 inch of rainfall).
Cut fescue regularly to maintain it at a height of 2.5 to 3 inches. For best results, do not cut more than the top 1/3 of the grass blade.
Overseed fescue annually to maintain a full stand of grass. During the first year in the home, overseed in March and September. After the initial year, overseeding in September will be adequate.
Fertilize fescue throughout the year to ensure good growth. To avoid burning your lawn, follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the package. Always remember to water your lawn after fertilizing.
BERMUDA GRASS
Water Bermuda sod throughout the year, even in the winter season when the sod is dormant (never water when it is extremely cold, as freezing could result). Soak the root zone to a depth of 4-5 inches, which equals approximately 1 inch of rainfall.
Cut Bermuda grass to a height of ¾ to 1 ½ inches while never cutting more than the top 1/3 of the blade.
It is recommended that a Bermuda grass lawn be scalped in the spring. This will remove the dead leaf material from the previous growing season. To scalp your lawn, mow it with a sharp blade, gradually lowering the blade to it’s lowest setting. After mowing all areas as low as possible, dispose of the clippings.
TREES AND SHRUBS
Trees and shrubs complete the landscaping of your home. Native trees, transplanted trees and shrubs all require proper care and maintenance by the homeowner.
It is important to water shrubs every 3-4 days. It is best to water in the morning rather than in the evening. Evening watering can promote fungal growth. During the summer months, do not water in the heat of the day as most water will evaporate before it can penetrate the roots of your shrubs.
Pruning shrubs will help in maintaining their fullness and shape. More than likely, in the first year, your shrubs will not require pruning. In early spring, prune shrubs heavily, maintaining them with light pruning during the summer months. Do not prune after September, as this will leave the plants susceptible to cold, causing them to freeze.
Water trees twice a week during the spring, summer, and fall. During winter, water trees at least twice a month.
Patrick Malloy Communities is not responsible for existing trees on your lot. When constructing your home, we will cut down all trees that fall within 15 foot from the sides of the home and 20 foot from the front and back of the home. Trees that fall within this range will be subject to heavy equipment traffic and material movement.
Patrick Malloy Communities will not remove or take down any trees regardless of their condition. After the home closes, it is the homeowner’s responsibility for the condition of existing trees on the homesite. Patrick Malloy Communities will not be held liable for any damage caused by collapse or for future tree removal fees. We cannot make any guarantees concerning trees.
Trees that have been lying on the ground before construction and are not in the landscaped areas of the homesite will not be removed by Patrick Malloy Communities before or after the home closes.
Pine straw placed a the base of trees should remain intact 4-6 inches deep to protect the trees’ root systems.
Stakes and wires help keep a trees’ growth straight, and they should remain intact for 1 year. It is recommended that the wire be checked regularly during the first year for looseness and tighten if needed. After 1 year, be sure to remove the stakes and wire so that the trees can grow naturally.